The Sweet Smell of Bermuda

One of the first thoughts that crosses nearly everyone’s mind when they first step onto Bermuda soil is, “Why didn’t I come here sooner?”

Mark Twain visited in 1867 and wrote: “Bermuda is the right country for a jaded man to “loaf” in. There are no harassments; the deep peace and quiet of the country sink into one’s body and bones and give his conscience a rest and chloroform the legion of invisible small devils that are always trying to whitewash his hair.”

Yes, relaxation tops the agenda for most travelers and they can find it here in abundance, starting with a day of “loafing” on  beaches that are beyond beautiful. I’m not sure if its because of the reflection from the  pink sand or where its situated in the North Atlantic Ocean, but the water is an incredible shade of blue that clearly isn’t photoshopped to look better in every brochure you’ve seen for the place. It’s also easy to get around, clean, friendly and famous of course,  for its incredible shopping (what? that counts as relaxation for plenty of us!)


There’s also plenty to see and do once you’ve had enough sun and your credit card is begging for mercy.  The Bermuda Aquarium and Zoo and the Crystal Caves with its huge stalagmites and stalactites are a few favorite stops, but there’s historic Fort Hamilton, the National Museum of Bermuda, the Botanical Gardens and so much more.

During this last visit I discovered Lili Bermuda in the Parish of St. George. There’s also a shop in Hamilton, but the store in St. George is much more than a retail spot selling fine perfumes. Plus checking out all of the other shops, restaurants and historic sights in the tiny enclave at the top of the island is definitely worth spending an afternoon to explore.


Lili Bermuda has been creating fragrances at the historic Stewart Hall since 1928. Even if you hate perfume, its a chance to peek into another era and see one of the first 18th century houses on the island. Once a home to wealthy families, it is now owned by the Bermuda National trust.  The dark woodwork and white stone and green shuttered exterior have remained in tact for nearly 89 years.

Today under the watchful eye of perfumer Isabelle Ramsay-Brackstone,  soaps and fragrances that represent the Island’s natural beauty are carefully created in huge glass jars in an outside shed that’s adjacent to a lovely little cafe that’s a perfect spot to grab an afternoon tea. Montreal native Isabelle can regularly be spotted measuring essential oils and mixing a sweet smelling concoction with one of her apprentices close at hand.


You can tour the facility to learn the secrets of perfume making

It’s definitely a struggle to choose a favorite scent from the dozens of perfumes that feature the elements of oleander, muguet, passion flower, bergamot, citrus and so much more. I finally contained myself long enough to settle for “Petals” which combines the scent of white honeysuckle, jasmine and orange flowers. I only wish that blogs came with smell-a-vision so you can know how heavenly it is.

Not to be left out, there’s also a variety of colognes for men to choose from too. Make the trip to visit during your next trip–you won’t regret it.

5 Queen Street
St. George’s GE 05

Summer Hours (April to October)
Monday to Saturday 9am to 5pm

Winter Hours (November to March)
Monday to Saturday 10am to 4pm


“You can go to heaven if you want to, I’d rather stay right here in Bermuda.”—Mark Twain


Categories: bermuda, islands, UncategorizedTags:

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